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流行時尚的延異與豔異—中國風尚(Chinoiserie)的時尚移轉與全球化賦型

The Differance of Fashion between Exotic and Erotic — Transculturation and Globalization of the Chinoiserie Chic
現代美術學報 6-圖片 現代美術學報 6-圖片
《Vouge Italia》〈Chinese Souvenir〉1997,3

摘要

時尚文化的流動景觀,乃是由西方的美學品味所延伸與型塑,藉由文化影像、符號的包覆,流行時尚得以推衍出全新的趨勢風貌。有鑑於流行時尚所呈現的後現代/全球化氛圍,本文由文化想像與對照的觀點,檢視西方如何透過工藝美術與衣飾設計的手法,建構出中國風尚的它者文化想像。在後現代與全球化的文化語境下,流行時尚透過廣泛運用既有的符號內涵,重組趨勢風潮並與大眾進行互動回應。至此,「符號消費」已成為中國風尚全球移轉與賦型的關鍵所在。

Abstract

The map of the fashion culture landscape emanats from Western taste and aesthetics. Along with a host of cultural images and symbols, fashion re-creates a brand new fashion trend. From the viewpoint of cultural imagination that reflects on and through the ways of seeing fashion design as a postmodern/globalization phenomenon, this paper attempts to research study how the West constructed the cultural imagination of the other culture from the fashioning of Chinoiserie. In the cultural context ofpostmodernism and globalization, and as a response to the masses, fashion utilizes the existing symbols to re-construct trendy chic. Therefore, "symbolic consumption" plays an important role in the process of transculturation and globalization.

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